Una visita granadina

After an amazing Friday in Nerja, we spent the rest of the weekend in Granada.

Granada is one of those must-see cities in Spain, not just because Evan Moore studied there, but also because of the history and beauty of its buildings and scenery. Since it is only about an hour from Malaga, we got to sleep in a bit later, meeting at la Manquita at 9:45. As per usual, a few people were late and we were on the road by 10 AM. I slept a little, but watched the countryside and felt excited about a new city.

Our first day in Granada was much more relaxed than the usual first day of our excursions. We had a little free time to use los aseos and grab a coffee when we arrived. Most of the bus piled into El Corte Ingles (it is similar to a big Macy's), and feverishly went up and down the escalators, desperate to find the bathroom. After successfully completing my mission, I saw one of those Espana futbol scarves on sale in a display of Copa Mundial (World Cup) stuff. Knowing how much it would enhance my college dorm room, I bought it.

We reunited with our directors, Heidi and Raquel, and took a leisurely walk down the colorful streets of Granada on our way to the Catedral de Granada. When we got there, Raquel warned us not to accept rosemary from the gypsies--if you take it, they will harass you for money. I do not think that system of business can be very successful. Instead of visiting the main cathedral, however, we went around the corner to visit la Capilla Real (Royal Chapel).

Once inside, I saw the hateful sign that said I could not take pictures, so my memory will have to serve to remember it. La Capilla Real was built by los Reyes Catolicos (Fernando y Isabela) after they conquered Granada. It serves as a mausoleum for five people: them, their daughter, Juana la Loca, her husband, Felipe el Guapo, and their oldest grandson, Miguel da Paz. Like every religious building in Europe, it was ornate, beautiful, and overwhelming.

After the chapel, we took a little paseo (walk) with our guides. They took us down a scenic path from where we could see la Alhambra up on the hill. At this point, we were all hungry and grouchy and wanted to take siestas. We walked to our hotel, got our keys (thankfully more than one this time!), and found our rooms. As always, Matteo, Felipe, and I shared a room, and when we got inside, we discovered that my bed was in a separate room, giving me a "private room." Since Matteo usually gets back two hours after I do, and Felipe two hours after him, this worked well. Its amazing how this pattern always plays out, even if I do not come back until 4 AM.

The three of us headed off with Alejandro, Zach, and Jordan to find a buffet house for which a man on the street had given us fliers. We arrived and stuffed ourselves with salad, paella, pizza, pasta, and ice cream. Honestly, we ate so much that we almost just took naps outside on the street. The walk back to our hotel seemed to take forever and when we finally got there, Matteo, Felipe and I collapsed in our respective beds, taking four-hour siestas.

After our siestas, we got up to prepare for our "surprise" that was listed on the itinerary. We headed out at 8:30, and Raquel lead us up the narrow streets of Granada, always going up and up the slanted streets. She told us we were "entering Morocco" due to all of the Moroccan shops and a nearby man said, "No, es Granada!" We had no idea where she was taking us, although many people hoped it would be a flamenco show.

Eventually, we stopped at a lookout point and were amazed by what we saw. The whole city of Granada was beautifully laid-out and filled with the glow of sunset. Directly in front of us, across the city we saw the beautiful La Alhambra, a fortress/city/castle built by the Muslims and the final defense against the Christians during la Reconquista. We also said that that was all the surprise we needed, but I think in our minds we all hoped there would be more, especially after all that walking.

Raquel then lead us down some more narrow streets, eventually stopping outside a Flamenco theatre! It was small and authentic, and we were so very excited. They sat our group on the left side of the room; the right side was filled with Japanese tourists. I sat in the very front row with Andi, Brandi, and Meghan, literally three feet from the stage. The waiter came and took our drink orders (Coca Cola Light for me!), and we got ready to enjoy the show.

Two different groups performed that night, made of six performers each. Some sang, others played guitar, and one person danced at a time. Flamenco involves a lot of stomping and clapping and at some points reminded me a little bit of Step Up or Stomp the Yard. The dances were beautiful, and I got to see an old woman dance while clicking her castanets, my favorite part of flamenco. I eagerly took video clips and photos, hoping to make a compilation video when I got home.

At the end of the show, the dancers began to snatch people up from the audience to participate. Alejandro went first, followed by a student from another Study Abroad group. I always get chosen for that sort of thing, so I put down my sunglasses and gave my camera to Andi in preparation. Sure enough, the old castanet lady looked at me, smiled, and crooked a finger so I jumped up on the stage. I made a complete fool of myself but got a lot of cheers, especially when I shook my butt. Basically, it was just a wonderful night.

We headed back to a night life center close to our hotel head-over-heels in love with flamenco. I had a nice talk in Spanish with Heidi, asking her if she put Matteo and I together as roommate because we both have badonkadonk butts. She said no. When we got to the center, Pedro, Brandi, Lisa, Alejandro, Jen, Rubia and I decided to go for tapas. We went to a little restaurant where I got Spanish tortilla and split some sangria with Alejandro and Pedro. Our tapas left us wanting a little more, so the girls went for ice cream while the boys got kebabs. Classic.

Since we had a big day at the world-renowned Alhambra the next day, we decided to call it an early night and get a little sleep. I went on my computer, checked a few things, and went to sleep. Matteo followed the two hour rule, but Felipe did not get back until after 8 AM. Oh Felipe... We got up in the morning at 9, had a delicious breakfast buffet at the hotel, and then rode the bus to La Alhambra.

We were all quite excited about La Alhambra. Our guide lead us through some gardens first, followed by some sort of stables. La Alhambra really is a city filled with houses and castles, gardens and fountains. I walked with Raquel most of the time, having a Spanish conversation about our mutual love for Crepusculo (Twilight). Although Raquel is Spanish, she read the books in English. I think books are always best in their native language. Raquel told me she had already bought her ticket for the first showing of Eclipse in Spain. Twilight unites everyone.

There was so much beauty within the various buildings and gardens of La Alhambra--I really cannot even describe it. Look at my pictures; they do a better job. Within the walls, there is one hotel which used to be a Franciscan monastery. Our guide told us that it is super expensive to stay there, but some people do it. There was also a palace built by Christians which was never actually used. We saw the power and majesty of the Sultan within his buildings, and the ever pervasive marks of a Moor dwelling: fountains and orange trees.

After leaving La Alhambra, we had a little free time for lunch. Aftyn, Katie, Brittni, Andrea and I went into one restaurant, but when we saw they did not have menus we ran for it. We met up with Rubia, Elena, and Lisa at another outdoor restaurant, and I ate delicious veal ravioli. By the way, they do not really eat ground beef in Spain. If you eat cow, it is going to be veal. Always.

Halfway through la comida, some of our classmates joined us with their recently purchased fake Ray Ban sunglasses. Wanting my own pair, I set off to find the Africans who sold them to them. I had almost given up hope and was about to get on the bus home when one walked my way and approached me with his sunglasses display. He wanted 15 euro for the glassed but there was no way I was paying that much. We haggled for a while, and when I finally walked away and started to get on the bus, he agreed to let me buy them for 8 euro. Thank goodness for my Spanish skills.

When we got home, I showed them to Tere. She asked me if I had bought them at a real store or from "un negro." (This is actually the politically correct word in Spain, so don't be hatin'!) After I told her how I got them, she taught me the Spanish verb for "to haggle" (regatear) and gave me supper. I was surprised by how much I liked returning home after trips and saddened at the thought of returning to my permanent home in a little over a week.

Granada was beautiful--I am not ready to return to America.


Click here for photos!